Nature · Sangla and Chitkul, Himachal
A day in Chitkul, the last village
Ride 26 km up the Baspa from Sangla to Chitkul at about 3,450 m, the last inhabited village on the road. Walk the timber lanes to the Mathi temple, then follow the river meadows upstream towards the border zone.
Photo: Kaiho · CC BY-SA 3.0 · CommonsThe road from Sangla passes Batseri and Rakchham and climbs through forest and open meadows to Chitkul, about 1 hour away. The village is built on a slope above the Baspa, with houses of timber and stone, slate roofs and wooden balconies. The Mathi temple, dedicated to the goddess of the valley, stands at its heart and has finely carved woodwork. Visitors should remove shoes and leather and follow any rules posted at the gate.
Below the village, wide meadows run along the Baspa, and a level path leads upstream past grazing animals and boulders with the snow peaks closing in. You can walk for an hour or two before reaching the limit for civilians; beyond Chitkul is a restricted border zone. Signs and ITBP posts make the boundary clear, and you must not go past them.
Chitkul has a few dhabas, including one that calls itself the last dhaba of India, serving rajma-chawal, Maggi and tea. At about 3,450 m, walk slowly and drink plenty of water; if you feel headaches or breathlessness, go back down to Sangla. Leave by mid-afternoon in autumn, when temperatures drop sharply and light fades early.
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Trips through Sangla and Chitkul
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Each of these trips stops in Sangla and Chitkul. Tell us and we keep a slot for this day.
Photo: Navneet Sharma · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Saver
Kinnaur by HRTC bus: Sangla, Chitkul, Kalpa
HRTC buses and local shared taxis
Photo: Navneet Sharma · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Signature
Shimla and Kinnaur with Oberoi stays
Private SUV with driver and guide; toy train from Kalka
Sleep nearby
Stays in Sangla and Chitkul
Questions
Before you book
Can I stay overnight in Chitkul?
Yes, there are homestays and guesthouses open roughly from April to November. Rooms are simple and nights cold. Sleep at Sangla or Rakchham for at least one night first to acclimatise, as Chitkul is about 3,450 m high.
Can I go beyond Chitkul towards the border?
No. The area beyond Chitkul is a restricted border zone, and civilians may walk only a short distance up the river meadows. Follow signs and instructions from ITBP and police. Treks such as Lamkhaga need special permissions arranged through registered operators.
Is there mobile network in Chitkul?
Coverage is limited. BSNL and Jio sometimes work, but signal is weak and unreliable. Tell family you may be out of contact for a day. Sangla has better coverage.