Culture · Gurez Valley, Kashmir
Evening below Habba Khatoon peak
The pyramid peak above Dawar carries the name of Habba Khatoon, the 16th-century poet-queen of Kashmir. An evening on the Kishanganga's bank, watching the peak catch the last light, is the moment that defines Gurez for most visitors.
Photo: Zahid samoon · CC BY 3.0 · CommonsHabba Khatoon was born Zoon, meaning moon, in a village near Pampore in 1554. According to tradition, Sultan Yousuf Shah Chak heard her singing and brought her to court. When the Mughals took Kashmir in 1586 and Yousuf was exiled, she was left to wander, composing songs of separation in Kashmiri rather than the Persian of the court. Her songs are still sung at Kashmiri weddings.
The peak that carries her name rises steeply above Dawar, a near-perfect pyramid. Local lore links a spring at its foot to her. Walk out of Dawar along the river in the late afternoon and find a bank with a clear view; as the valley falls into shade, the peak stays lit for a few minutes longer.
Bring a flask of kahwa and a warm layer, because the temperature drops fast after sunset. Do not climb towards the peak or wander near military areas, which are common on the slopes. Return to your guesthouse before dark.
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Who was Habba Khatoon?
Habba Khatoon, born Zoon in 1554 near Pampore, was a Kashmiri poet and the wife of Sultan Yousuf Shah Chak. After he lost Kashmir to the Mughals and was exiled, she composed songs of longing in Kashmiri. Her lyrics are still sung across the valley.
Can we climb Habba Khatoon peak?
It is not a tourist climb, and the slopes are close to military areas. Enjoy it from Dawar and the riverbank. Ask locally about walks to the spring at its base and follow any restrictions.
When is the best light on Habba Khatoon peak?
In the last half hour before sunset, when the valley is in shade and the peak glows. Clear evenings in September and October are especially good. Early morning light also catches the summit.