Spiritual · Patan (Lalitpur), Nepal
Golden Temple and Patan's hidden bahals
A morning walk through Patan's Buddhist courtyards, starting at the gilded Golden Temple and ending at Kumbheshwar's five-roofed temple. You see how monasteries became neighbourhoods without losing their shrines.
Photo: Allie_Caulfield from Germany · CC BY 2.0 · CommonsHiranya Varna Mahavihar, the Golden Temple, is a short walk north of Durbar Square through a low doorway. Inside the courtyard a gilded three-roofed shrine faces a small central temple, with prayer wheels, bells and brass images all around. Tortoises are kept here as sacred animals. Remove shoes and leather items before entering the inner courtyard and walk clockwise. Morning puja is the best time to come.
From here, wind through the lanes to other bahals, courtyards founded as Buddhist monasteries and now home to the families descended from their monks. Each has a central shrine, stupas called chaityas, and water taps where people fill pots. Ask locals or your guide the way; many entrances are just doorways in a brick wall.
End at Kumbheshwar, one of only two five-roofed temples in the valley. The bathing tank beside it is believed to be fed from the high lake of Gosainkunda, and it fills with bathers during Janai Purnima in August. Walk back to Durbar Square in ten minutes for breakfast.
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Everest view trek to Namche Bazaar
Domestic flights to Lukla, private car in Kathmandu, five days on foot
Questions
Before you book
Why are there tortoises at the Golden Temple?
Tortoises are kept as sacred animals in the courtyard, and visitors often see them moving around the shrine.
What should I wear to the Golden Temple?
Modest clothing covering shoulders and knees. Shoes and leather items such as belts must be removed before entering the inner courtyard.
Is Kumbheshwar open to non-Hindus?
The courtyard and tank area can be visited; the inner sanctum is for Hindus. Follow signs and local guidance.