Festival · Darjeeling, Darjeeling & Kalimpong
Losar in the Darjeeling hills
Losar is the Tibetan new year, kept by Tibetan, Sherpa, Bhutia and other Buddhist families across the hills. Monasteries in Ghum, Darjeeling, Mirik and Kalimpong hold prayers, homes are cleaned and decorated, and families share khapse biscuits, butter tea and visits for the first days of the year.
Photo: Ailiajameel · CC BY-SA 4.0 · CommonsLosar marks the start of the Tibetan lunar year and usually falls in February or early March. In the Darjeeling hills it belongs to the Buddhist communities who have lived here for generations or came after 1959: Tibetan, Sherpa, Bhutia, Yolmo and others. Monasteries such as Yiga Choeling at Ghum, the Druk Sangag Choeling monastery at Dali on the Darjeeling road, Bokar Monastery above Mirik and Zang Dhok Palri Phodang in Kalimpong mark the days with long prayer sessions, butter lamps and new prayer flags.
The work starts before the new year. Houses are cleaned, old flags come down, and families fry khapse, the twisted biscuits made for the season. On the last days of the old year many monasteries hold rituals to clear away misfortune, and some stage masked cham dances. On Losar itself families visit the monastery early, then each other, sharing butter tea, chang and sweets. Prayer flags go up on ridges and rooftops around Ghum and Kalimpong.
Two other new year days fall close by. The Tamang community celebrates Sonam Lhochhar, usually in January or February, and the Gurung community keeps Tamu Lhosar at the end of December, with dances and gatherings in Darjeeling. For visitors Losar is mostly a community and family occasion rather than a staged show, so visit monasteries quietly and respectfully. Dates follow the lunar calendar; check current status before you travel.
Tips for the day
- Visit Ghum Monastery early on the morning of Losar, when families come to offer prayers, and stay at the back of the hall.
- Ask before photographing monks, rituals or families, and never use flash inside a prayer hall.
- Walk clockwise around stupas and prayer wheels, and keep to the left of any shrine.
Where it happens
Darjeeling
Darjeeling is a hill town at about 2,045 m on a ridge facing Kangchenjunga, 74 km away. Stay 3 nights to ride the toy train to Ghum, watch sunrise from Tiger Hill and walk a tea garden. Come in October–November or March–May. Saver stays start near ₹2,000 a night; Windamere sits at the top end.
Stay nearby
Photo: Subhrajyoti07 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Budget
Meghbalika Tourism Property (WBTDC)
The West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation's lodge in Darjeeling town, formerly the Darjeeling Tourist Lodge.…
Photo: Arne Hückelheim 2010-09-21 12:41:53 This is a … · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Mid
Dekeling Hotel
A long-running family hotel run by a Tibetan family on Gandhi Road, a few minutes below Chowrasta, with simple, wa…
Questions
About Losar in the Darjeeling hills
When is Losar celebrated in Darjeeling?
Losar falls on the first day of the first month of the Tibetan lunar calendar, usually in February or early March. Monasteries often hold rituals in the days before, and celebrations continue for about three days. The date changes every year, so check current status before you travel and confirm with the monastery you want to visit.
Where can tourists see Losar in the Darjeeling hills?
Ghum Monastery and the Dali monastery near Darjeeling, Bokar Monastery above Mirik and Zang Dhok Palri Phodang on Durpin Hill in Kalimpong are the easiest to visit. Expect prayers, butter lamps and new prayer flags rather than a fixed programme. Masked dances happen at some monasteries in the days before the new year, not every year.
Can non-Buddhists visit monasteries during Losar?
Yes, visitors are generally welcome in the courtyards and prayer halls. Dress modestly, remove shoes where asked, keep your voice low, walk clockwise and do not sit with your feet pointing at the altar. A small offering at the shrine is customary but never required. Some inner rooms may be closed to visitors.
Is February a good time to visit Darjeeling for Losar?
It is a quiet, cold month: Darjeeling is about 4 to 11 °C, hotels are cheap and mornings are often clear. Tea gardens are dormant, and snow is possible at Sandakphu and Lava. Pack thermals and a down jacket, since many budget rooms have no heating.