Festival · Naggar, Himachal
Kullu Dussehra
Kullu's great autumn gathering begins on Vijayadashami, the day Dussehra ends elsewhere in India. For seven days, village deities carried in palanquins from across the valley assemble around Raghunath ji at Dhalpur Maidan in Kullu town, about 25 km from Naggar, the old capital of the Kullu rajas.
The festival grew around Raghunath ji, a form of Rama whose image was brought to Kullu from Ayodhya in the 17th century during the reign of Raja Jagat Singh. Tradition says the raja installed the image and declared Raghunath the true ruler of the valley, governing in the deity's name. Dussehra became the occasion on which the valley's many village gods, the devtas, come to pay their respects to him. Naggar, where the rajas ruled before moving down to Sultanpur in Kullu, keeps that older history in its castle and temples.
On the first afternoon, Raghunath ji is taken from his temple in Sultanpur to Dhalpur Maidan and placed on a wooden chariot, which crowds pull across the ground with ropes. Devtas arrive from villages across the Kullu valley and beyond, each in a palanquin carried on men's shoulders, with drums, long brass horns and a band of devotees. Hadimba Devi, the patron goddess of the Kullu royal family, comes down from her temple in Manali. Through the week, the deities sit in camps around the maidan and devotees move between them.
Dhalpur becomes a fair as well: stalls sell Kullu shawls and caps, woollens, utensils and food, and the evenings bring cultural programmes and the Kullu nati, the linked-arm circle dance of the valley. On the last day, the chariot is drawn to the bank of the Beas for the Lanka Dahan rite, and the devtas begin their walks home. The state celebrates it as International Kullu Dussehra, with visiting troupes on the stage at night.
Tips for the day
- Stay in Naggar or Manali rather than Kullu town, where rooms fill and prices rise; buses and taxis to Dhalpur take about an hour.
- Be at Dhalpur by early afternoon on the first day to see the chariot pulled; it gets very crowded, so keep children close.
- Ask before photographing a devta's palanquin or its bearers, and never touch a palanquin or step through a procession.
Where it happens
Naggar
Naggar is a quiet village at about 1,800 m on the left bank of the Beas, 20 km south of Manali. It was the capital of the Kullu rajas, and its 15th-century castle is now an HPTDC hotel. Spend one or two nights for the castle, the Roerich estate and village walks.
Stay nearby
Questions
About Kullu Dussehra
When is Kullu Dussehra held?
It begins on Vijayadashami, the tenth day of the bright half of the lunar month of Ashvin, usually in October, and lasts seven days. Because it follows the lunar calendar, the date moves each year; check the current year's dates with Himachal tourism before you book rooms.
Where is Kullu Dussehra celebrated?
The main events take place at Dhalpur Maidan in Kullu town, on the Beas. Naggar is about 25 km and Manali about 40 km away, and both make calmer bases with regular buses and taxis into Kullu through the festival week.
Is Kullu Dussehra crowded, and is it safe?
It is very crowded, especially on the first and last days, with police and volunteers managing the ground. Pickpocketing happens, so keep valuables close. Families with small children are better off visiting the deity camps on a weekday morning in the middle of the week.
Do I need tickets for Kullu Dussehra?
No. Entry to Dhalpur Maidan and the deity camps is free. Some evening cultural programmes have reserved seating, but the ground and the processions are open to everyone. Hotel rooms are the real cost: book early, as rates rise for the festival week.