Festival · Pelling, Sikkim
Losar and the Pemayangtse cham
Losar, the Tibetan new year, is celebrated by Sikkim's Bhutia, Lepcha and other Buddhist communities with family gatherings, prayers and visits to monasteries. In the days before it, Pemayangtse near Pelling and other gompas hold cham masked dances to clear away the old year's obstacles.
Photo: Santanu Paul · CC BY-SA 4.0 · CommonsLosar marks the start of the Tibetan lunar year and usually falls in February or early March. In Sikkim, families clean and decorate their homes, prepare special foods and visit monasteries to offer prayers and khadas. Gangtok, Pelling and the monastery towns are busy with families in new clothes, and many shops close for a few days.
Before the new year, monasteries perform cham dances to drive out negative forces of the past year. At Pemayangtse, the annual dance is held on the 28th and 29th days of the twelfth Tibetan month, with monks in masks and robes representing deities and protectors, accompanied by long horns, drums and cymbals. Rumtek and other Gangtok monasteries hold their own dances in the same season.
For travellers, Losar is a chance to see Sikkim's Buddhist traditions at their most public. It is cold in February, especially in Pelling's mornings, but the skies are often clear. Dates shift each year with the lunar calendar, so check current status before you travel.
Tips for the day
- Arrive at Pemayangtse early on dance days to find a place in the courtyard.
- Dress warmly; dances run for hours in cold winter air.
- Do not use flash and do not walk across the dance area.
Where it happens
Pelling
Pelling is a ridge town at about 2,150 m in West Sikkim with one of the closest views of Kangchenjunga. Around it lie Pemayangtse monastery, founded in 1705, the ruins of the old capital at Rabdentse and the sacred Khecheopalri lake. No permit is needed for Indians. Plan two or three nights.
Stay nearby
Photo: Santanu Paul · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Mid
The Chumbi Mountain Retreat
A mid-range resort in upper Pelling with rooms facing Kangchenjunga, a restaurant and gardens. A comfortable base …
Photo: flowcomm · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Luxury
The Elgin Mount Pandim
A heritage hotel on the ridge just below Pemayangtse monastery, facing Kangchenjunga and Mount Pandim. Gardens, pe…
Questions
About Losar and the Pemayangtse cham
When is Losar in Sikkim?
Losar falls on the first day of the Tibetan lunar year, usually in February or early March. Dates change each year; check current status before you travel.
Where can I see cham dances before Losar?
Pemayangtse near Pelling, Rumtek and Enchey near Gangtok and other monasteries hold masked dances in the days before Losar.
Can tourists attend Losar celebrations?
Yes, monastery dances are open to visitors. Dress modestly, follow instructions on photography and respect the rituals.
Is Sikkim crowded during Losar?
Less than in October or May. Some shops and offices close for a few days, so plan meals and travel ahead.