Chele La, at 3,988 m on the road between Paro and Haa, is the highest motorable point in Bhutan; the asphalt road was built in the 1990s and is narrow and steep.
Source: Chelela Pass
Valley in Bhutan
Haa
Over Chele La to a quiet valley of white and black temples
Haa is a narrow north–south valley in western Bhutan at about 2,700 m, reached from Paro over Chele La at 3,988 m, the highest motorable point in the country. It is one of the least populated districts, with farm homestays, the White and Black temples and few tourists. Spend one or two nights.
Photo: Christopher J. Fynn · CC BY-SA 3.0 · CommonsHaa lies just west of Paro, sharing a border with Tibet to the north and close to Sikkim. The name, pronounced 'hah', and the older form Has are said to carry a sense of hiddenness. The Haa Chhu, rising near Jomolhari, runs down the steep valley past rice and buckwheat fields, yak pastures higher up and villages of whitewashed farmhouses. With about 13,700 people in the 2017 census, it is Bhutan's second least-populated district after Gasa.
Most visitors arrive over Chele La from Paro, a narrow road built in the 1990s that climbs through blue pine and rhododendron to prayer flags at 3,988 m. On clear mornings, mostly October to March, you can see Jomolhari and Jichu Drake to the north. The descent into Haa takes about an hour. Haa town has a small bazaar, a dzong and the Indian Military Training Team base, IMTRAT, which trains Bhutan's army.
Haa's sacred core is Miri Punsum, the 'three brother hills' named Jampelyang, Chana Dorji and Chenrezig, above two old temples, Lhakhang Karpo (white) and Lhakhang Nagpo (black), which local historians date to the 7th century. Haa is also known for hoentoe, buckwheat dumplings filled with turnip greens and cheese, and for the Haa Summer Festival, a showcase of nomad life and food. A night in a farmhouse is the best way to see the valley.
Say it like a local · DzongkhaHoentoe
buckwheat dumplings stuffed with turnip greens and cheese, a Haa speciality
What to do in Haa
Chele La
At 3,988 m, Chele La is the highest motorable point in Bhutan, 35 km from Paro and 26 km from Haa. Prayer flags cover the ridge. Short walks along it give views of Jomolhari on clear mornings. Snow and ice can close it in winter.
Lhakhang Karpo and Nagpo
The White and Black temples, below the three brother hills of Miri Punsum, are believed by local historians to have been built in the same era as Kyichu Lhakhang in Paro. The Haa Tshechu is held at Lhakhang Karpo in October.
Farmhouse homestays
Families in villages around Haa host guests in traditional farmhouses with wood stoves, hot stone baths and home cooking. It is one of the few places in western Bhutan where a homestay feels routine rather than staged.
Haa Summer Festival
Held in summer in some years, the festival shows the life of Haa's herders: yak products, local food such as hoentoe, songs, dances and sports. Dates change; check with your operator.
Hike to Katsho or Juneydrak
Short walks lead to small village temples and to Juneydrak hermitage on a cliff above the valley, about 1.5–2 hours round trip. They are quiet, with views across the valley.
Field notes
What most guides miss about Haa
An area just below Chele La was used as the location for Agay's Hut in Khyentse Norbu's film Travellers and Magicians; the crew rebuilt an abandoned Bhutan Logging Corporation camp as their base.
Source: Chelela Pass
Haa town hosts the Indian Military Training Team (IMTRAT), which trains the Royal Bhutan Army and Royal Bodyguard and is the oldest training team India has sent abroad.
Source: Ha, Bhutan
Experiences
Three days worth having in Haa
Photo: Mario Biondi writer · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Haa · 2–3 hours
Chele La ridge walk at sunrise
Stop at Bhutan's highest road pass, 3,988 m, and walk along the prayer-flag ridge for views of Jomolhari and the Paro a…
Free; car share ₹1,500–2,500 per person
Photo: Leovdvxxx · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Haa · 2 hours
Lhakhang Karpo, Nagpo and the three brother hills
Visit the White and Black temples at the foot of Miri Punsum, the three brother hills that guard Haa, and hear how a lo…
Donation ₹50–200
Photo: Bhutanese_hemadatsi_and_rice.JPG: ShashiBellam… · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Haa · 2–3 hours
Make hoentoe in a Haa farmhouse
Spend an evening in a Haa farmhouse kitchen learning to fold hoentoe, buckwheat dumplings stuffed with turnip leaves, c…
₹500–1,500 per person
Real prices
What things cost in Haa
ItemIndicative 2026
Farmhouse homestay with dinner and breakfast₹2,000–3,500 per person
Hot stone bath₹800–1,500
Plate of hoentoe₹200–400
Paro–Haa day trip, car share for four₹1,500–2,500 per person
Licensed guide, per day₹2,500–3,500
Temple donation₹50–200
Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.
Getting there
How to reach Haa
Air
Fly to Paro, then drive about 65 km and 2.5–3 hours over Chele La. In winter your operator may route via Chhuzom instead if the pass is icy.
Bus
Haa has limited public bus links to Thimphu and Paro. Tourists need their licensed guide with them, so almost everyone travels in the operator's vehicle.
Road
Paro to Haa over Chele La is about 65 km and 2.5–3 hours. Haa to Thimphu via the valley road to Chhuzom is about 115 km and 3.5–4 hours.
Where to stay
Sleeping in Haa
Haa is best for saver travellers who want a farm night: registered homestays in villages around the valley cost about ₹2,000–3,500 per person with meals, usually with shared or simple attached bathrooms and a wood stove. Comfort travellers have a few small hotels and farm lodges near Haa town. There is no luxury lodge in Haa itself; signature trips visit as a day trip from COMO Uma Paro or Amankora Paro.
Questions
Haa, answered
Is Haa worth visiting?
Yes, for a quieter side of western Bhutan. You get Bhutan's highest road pass, two old temples, farm homestays and very few tourists, all within 2.5–3 hours of Paro. One night is enough; two let you hike and slow down.
Can I visit Haa as a day trip from Paro?
Yes. Leave by 7 am, spend an hour on Chele La, visit the White and Black temples and have lunch in Haa town, then return by evening. It is a full 8–9 hour day with about 130 km of mountain driving.
Do Indians need a special permit for Haa?
As we understand it, Haa must be listed on your entry permit as a district beyond Paro and Thimphu, and you must travel with a licensed guide. Your operator arranges both. Check current status before you travel.
What is the altitude in Haa?
Haa town is about 2,700 m and Chele La is 3,988 m. Most people manage fine after a couple of nights in Paro or Thimphu. Drink water, go slowly on the pass and talk to your doctor if you have heart or lung conditions.
When is the best time to visit Haa?
April to June for flowers on Chele La and green fields, and September to November for clear views and the Haa Tshechu. Winter is cold with possible snow on the pass. July and August bring rain and cloud.
Is there mobile network in Haa?
Haa town has B-Mobile and TashiCell coverage, but signal is weak on parts of Chele La and in outer villages. Homestays rarely have reliable Wi-Fi.
Is Haa good for families?
Yes, with care on the pass. Children enjoy farmhouses, animals and short walks. Watch for altitude symptoms on Chele La, pack warm layers and travel-sickness tablets for the winding road.
Can I drive from Haa to Thimphu?
Yes. The road follows the Haa Chhu south to meet the Paro–Phuentsholing highway near Chhuzom, about 115 km and 3.5–4 hours to Thimphu. It avoids recrossing Chele La.
What does a budget night in Haa cost?
A registered farmhouse homestay costs about ₹2,000–3,500 per person with dinner and breakfast, plus the ₹1,200 SDF for Indians and your share of guide and vehicle. A hot stone bath is extra.