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Monastery in Ladakh

Hemis

Ladakh's great Drukpa monastery and the snow leopard national park

Hemis is a Drukpa monastery 45 km south-east of Leh, re-established in 1672 and home to Ladakh's best-known festival, Hemis Tsechu. Behind it lies Hemis National Park, famous for snow leopards. Visit as a half-day trip from Leh, or stay in the park's homestay villages.

Altitude
3,600 m
Best months
Feb · Jun – Sep
Nights
0–3
Position
33.91° N, 77.70° E
HemisPhoto: Bernard Gagnon Canon EOS REBEL T4i · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons

Hemis Monastery hides in a side gorge above the Indus, so you see nothing of it from the main road until the last bend. It belongs to the Drukpa lineage and was re-established in 1672 under King Sengge Namgyal, though a monastery stood here before the 11th century. Its courtyard, surrounded by galleries and painted walls, is the stage for Hemis Tsechu each summer.

The monastery is rich. A gallery of 17th-century paintings of the 84 Mahasiddhas, made with ground mineral pigments, lines the courtyard, and a museum holds statues, thangkas, ritual objects and old masks. Every 12 years, in the Monkey year of the Tibetan calendar, an enormous thangka of Padmasambhava is unrolled during the festival.

West of the monastery the mountains belong to Hemis National Park, created in 1981 and enlarged to about 4,400 sq km by 1990. It is known for snow leopards, with the highest density of the cat recorded in any protected area. In winter, guided trips search the Rumbak valley; in summer, village homestays host trekkers on the Markha valley route.

Say it like a local · Ladakhi / TibetanTsechu
tenth day, the lunar date of Padmasambhava festivals

What to do in Hemis

The courtyard of Hemis

Walk through the gate into the wide stone courtyard, ringed by galleries and painted pillars. On festival days it fills with masked dancers; on ordinary mornings it is quiet enough to hear prayer wheels turning.

The monastery museum

The museum below the courtyard holds statues, thangkas, masks and ritual objects collected over centuries. Allow 45 minutes, and note that photography is not allowed inside.

Hemis Tsechu

The two-day festival honouring Padmasambhava falls on the 10th day of the 5th Tibetan month, in June or July. Monks perform masked cham dances to drums, cymbals and long horns. In 2026 it is expected on 24–25 June.

Snow leopard season

From January to March, guided trips with local spotters search the slopes of the Rumbak valley inside Hemis National Park. Sightings are never guaranteed, but this is one of the best places on earth to try.

Rumbak and Markha homestays

Summer treks through the park stay in family homes in villages like Rumbak and Markha. Families run a homestay rota so income is shared, and dinner is eaten in the kitchen by the stove.

Field notes

What most guides miss about Hemis

Sourced

Hemis National Park was founded in 1981 to protect the Rumbak and Markha catchments and grew to about 4,400 sq km by 1990. It is the only national park in India north of the main Himalaya.

Source: Hemis National Park

Sourced

The courtyard gallery at Hemis holds 17th-century paintings of the Eighty-Four Mahasiddhas, the tantric masters of Buddhist tradition, made with ground mineral pigments.

Source: Hemis Monastery

Sourced

In 1894 the Russian writer Nicolas Notovitch claimed Hemis held a gospel describing Jesus in India. Historians regard the story as a fabrication, but it still brings curious visitors to the monastery.

Source: Hemis Monastery

Real prices

What things cost in Hemis

ItemIndicative 2026
Bus Leh–Hemis₹50–80 one way
Union taxi Leh–Thiksey–Hemis–Shey day₹3,000–4,000 a car
Monastery and museum entry₹100–150
Rumbak or Markha homestay with meals₹1,500–2,000 per person
Guided snow leopard trip with spotters₹6,000–15,000 per person a day
Trekking guide day rate₹2,000–3,000

Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.

Getting there

How to reach Hemis

Air

Fly to Leh; Hemis is a 1 h 15 min drive. It is an easy outing on your second or third day in Ladakh because it is barely higher than Leh.

Bus

Local buses run from Leh bus stand to Hemis a few times a day for about ₹50–80, but timings are irregular and the last bus back can be early. Check current status before you travel.

Road

From Leh ≈ 45 km · 1 h 15 min along the Indus via Thiksey and Karu, then up a side valley. Combine it with Thiksey, Shey and Stakna in a day.

Where to stay

Sleeping in Hemis

Saver: most travellers visit Hemis as a day trip from a Leh guesthouse; in the national park, Rumbak, Yurutse and the Markha valley villages run family homestays at ₹1,500–2,000 per person with meals. Comfort: stay in Leh or at Stok Palace Heritage Hotel and visit by car. Signature: The Ultimate Travelling Camp's Chamba Camp at Thiksey is about 30 minutes from Hemis in summer, ideal for festival days.

Map of Hemis, Leh, Tso Moriri, Pangong TsoIndiaChinaHemis1HemisLeh2LehTso Moriri3Tso MoririPangong Tso4Pangong Tso100 kmN
  1. 1Hemis
  2. 2Leh
  3. 3Tso Moriri
  4. 4Pangong Tso
Drawn by Himalaya Hives from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Questions

Hemis, answered

How far is Hemis from Leh?

Hemis Monastery is about 45 km south-east of Leh, a drive of about 1 h 15 min along the Indus via Thiksey and Karu. A taxi for a day covering Thiksey, Shey and Hemis costs roughly ₹3,000–4,000 for the car. Local buses run a few times a day for about ₹50–80.

When is the Hemis festival in 2026?

Hemis Tsechu falls on the 10th day of the 5th month of the Tibetan calendar. In 2026 it is expected on 24 and 25 June, with dances from mid-morning. Dates follow the lunar calendar and are confirmed by the monastery, so check current status before you travel.

What is the best time to visit Hemis?

May to October for the monastery and summer treks; June or July for Hemis Tsechu; January to March for snow leopard trips in the national park. The monastery is open all year, but winter mornings are very cold and facilities are limited.

Can I stay overnight at Hemis?

There are a few simple guesthouses near the monastery and homestays in the national park villages such as Rumbak, but most visitors stay in Leh. On festival days, Chamba Camp at Thiksey and Leh hotels are the practical bases. Book early for festival dates.

Is Hemis good for an acclimatisation day?

Yes. Hemis is at about 3,600 m, close to Leh's height, and the visit involves only gentle walking. Combined with Thiksey and Shey, it makes an ideal second or third day before you cross Khardung La or Chang La.

Are snow leopards seen in summer at Hemis?

Rarely. In summer snow leopards move to higher, remote slopes, so sightings are unusual. Winter, from January to March, is the season for organised tracking trips with local spotters. Summer treks still offer blue sheep, marmots and birds of prey.

What should I wear to Hemis Monastery?

Modest clothing covering shoulders and knees, comfortable shoes you can remove at chapel doors, and a hat and sunscreen for the open courtyard. On festival days, bring a cushion or mat and a warm layer; the courtyard is sunny but mornings are cool.

Is Hemis suitable for seniors?

Yes, with care. The monastery has steps and uneven stone floors but no long climb from the car park. Go after at least two nights in Leh, take breaks, and avoid the crush of festival days if mobility is limited. Talk to your doctor before travelling to high altitude.

Do I need a permit for Hemis?

No permit is needed to visit Hemis Monastery. Trekking in Hemis National Park involves small park fees collected locally. Indian visitors going on to Pangong or Tso Moriri need the online environment fee receipt. Check current status before you travel.

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