In Tibetan, dhang or dang means cliff and kar or khar means fort, so Dhangkar means fort on a cliff. The gompa sits on a spur about 300 m above the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers.
Source: Dhankar Monastery
Village in Spiti & Lahaul
Dhankar
Spiti's old capital, a gompa on a cliff above two rivers
Dhankar is a village at 3,894 m whose old gompa clings to a ridge 300 m above the meeting of the Spiti and Pin rivers. It was Spiti's capital in the 17th century. Visit on the drive between Tabo and Kaza, hike to Dhankar Lake, and stay a night in a homestay if you want the place to yourself.
Photo: John Hill · CC BY-SA 3.0 · CommonsDhankar means fort on a cliff, and the name is exact. The old gompa and the ruins of the fort stand on a crumbling spur of eroded earth pillars, about 300 m above the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers. From here the rulers of Spiti could see anyone coming up either valley, which is why Dhankar served as the capital in the 17th century.
The old monastery is fragile. In 2006 the World Monuments Fund listed it among the 100 most endangered sites in the world, and conservation work has continued since. Most of the monks now live in the newer monastery below the village, where the Dalai Lama inaugurated a teaching temple in 2009. The old gompa remains open to visitors, with dark rooms, old paintings and a view that makes the climb worth it.
The village itself is small, with stone and mud houses, fields of barley and peas, and a handful of homestays. A steep trail climbs about an hour to Dhankar Lake, a small high pool with views of the Manirang range. Dhankar sits 8 km up a side road from Schilling on NH-505, which makes it an easy stop between Tabo and Kaza.
Say it like a local · TibetanKhar
fort or palace, the second half of the name Dhankar
What to do in Dhankar
The old cliff-top gompa
The old gompa is built into a ridge of eroded earth pillars, with small dark rooms, faded paintings and narrow ladders. Walk softly, do not lean on walls, and leave a donation: conservation here depends on visitors and the monastery.
The view over two rivers
From the gompa roof you look down on the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers, braided across a wide gravel bed. Late afternoon light makes the earth pillars glow.
Dhankar Lake hike
A steep trail climbs about an hour from the village to a small high lake, often still and reflecting the peaks of the Manirang range. Start in the morning and carry water.
The new monastery
Below the village, the newer monastery houses most of Dhankar's monks. The Dalai Lama inaugurated its teaching temple in July 2009. Prayers here are easier to attend than in the old gompa.
Homestay night under the fort
A few homestays in Dhankar let you see the gompa at dawn and dusk without the day cars. Simple rooms, dinner with the family, and a quiet village once the road empties.
Field notes
What most guides miss about Dhankar
Dhankar was the traditional capital of the Spiti valley kingdom in the 17th century, and parts of the gompa's architecture are thought to go back to the 12th century.
Source: Dhankar Monastery
In 2006 the World Monuments Fund named Dhankar Gompa one of the 100 most endangered sites in the world, which prompted conservation work by the Dhangkar Initiative.
Source: Dhankar Monastery
Experiences
Three days worth having in Dhankar
Photo: John Hill · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Commons
Dhankar · 1.5 hours
Inside the cliff-top gompa of Dhankar
Climb through the narrow rooms of Spiti's old capital monastery, perched 300 m above two rivers, and see why conservati…
Small fee or donation, about ₹50–100
Photo: Sumita Roy Dutta · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Dhankar · 2.5–3.5 hours return
Hike to Dhankar Lake
A steep climb of about an hour from Dhankar village to a small high lake with views of the Manirang peaks. Short, hard …
Free; local guide ₹800–1,200 optional
Photo: Arup1981 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Dhankar · Half day
Lhalung village and its old temple
A quiet side valley above Dhankar leads to Lhalung, a farming village with an old temple full of clay figures. Few visi…
Taxi from Dhankar ₹1,500–2,500 return; donation at the temple
Real prices
What things cost in Dhankar
ItemIndicative 2026
Taxi Kaza–Dhankar and back₹2,500–3,500 per car
Taxi Tabo–Dhankar–Kaza₹3,000–4,000 per car
Homestay with dinner and breakfast₹1,200–2,200 per person
Old gompa entrySmall fee or donation, about ₹50–100
Tea and snacks at the village cafe₹50–200
Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.
Getting there
How to reach Dhankar
Air
The nearest airport is Bhuntar near Kullu; then Manali to Kaza (one day) and 33 km on to Dhankar. Shimla airport serves the Kinnaur approach via Tabo.
Bus
Buses between Kaza and Tabo pass Schilling at the foot of the Dhankar road; from there it is 8 km uphill. Shared taxis are easier. Check current timings in Kaza.
Road
Dhankar is about 33 km from Kaza and 32 km from Tabo, the last 8 km a steep, narrow climb from Schilling on NH-505. Allow 1–1.5 hours from Kaza.
Where to stay
Sleeping in Dhankar
Saver: a few family homestays and simple guesthouses in Dhankar charge about ₹1,200–2,200 a person with dinner and breakfast; bathrooms are basic and hot water often comes by bucket. Comfort and signature: there is no hotel of that standard here, so we visit Dhankar on a day trip between Tabo and Kaza and stay in Kaza or Rangrik. If you sleep in Dhankar, remember it is higher than Kaza at 3,894 m; do it after acclimatising, not on your first night in Spiti.
Trips that stop here
See Dhankar on a trip
Photo: Sumita Roy Dutta · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
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Spiti village homestays: Dhankar to Langza
Shared car to Kaza, then local buses and short taxi transfers
From, per person₹25,500Jun – Jul · Sep
Questions
Dhankar, answered
How do I reach Dhankar from Kaza?
Take a taxi from Kaza, about 33 km and 1–1.5 hours, costing ₹2,500–3,500 for a return trip. Buses between Kaza and Tabo pass Schilling at the bottom of the 8 km Dhankar road, but there is no regular bus up to the village, so shared taxis are easier.
Is it worth staying overnight in Dhankar?
Yes, if you like quiet. After the day cars leave, the village is still, and dawn on the gompa is beautiful. Homestays are simple, with basic bathrooms. Most travellers see it in two hours on the way between Tabo and Kaza, which also works well.
How high is Dhankar?
Dhankar is at 3,894 m, about 240 m higher than Kaza. Sleep here after acclimatising, not on your first night in Spiti. The lake above is close to 4,140 m. Drink water, walk slowly, and talk to your doctor about altitude before you travel.
Why is Dhankar Monastery endangered?
It is built on a ridge of eroded earth pillars that crumble over time, and its walls are old mud and stone. In 2006 the World Monuments Fund listed it among the 100 most endangered sites in the world, and conservation work has been ongoing since.
How long is the Dhankar Lake trek?
About 2–3 km each way with a climb of roughly 250 m, taking an hour up and 45 minutes down. Start early, carry water and a warm layer, and turn back if you feel unwell.
Is there mobile network in Dhankar?
BSNL and Jio usually have weak signal in the village. Do not depend on it for payments or bookings; carry cash and confirm your plans in Kaza or Tabo.
Can I see Dhankar and Tabo in one day?
Yes. They are about 32 km apart. Spend the morning in Tabo and the afternoon in Dhankar, or the other way round, and reach Kaza by evening. It is one of the most rewarding days in Spiti.
Is Dhankar suitable for families?
Yes for a day visit. Children enjoy the view and the ladders, but hold small hands on the old gompa's steps and terraces. Skip the lake hike with young children unless they are well acclimatised.
When is the best time to visit Dhankar?
May to October. June and September are the best balance of open roads and fewer visitors. In July and August, landslides on the approach roads can delay travel. Winter visits are possible from Shimla but cold and snowy.