Rishikesh is a vegetarian-only, alcohol-free city. The sale of meat, fish and eggs has been banned since 1956, and in 2004 the Supreme Court of India upheld the ban on eggs.
Source: Rishikesh
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City in Garhwal
Where the Ganga leaves the hills and the yatra begins
Rishikesh is the town at 340 m where the Ganga leaves the Himalaya, and the start of almost every Garhwal trip. Come for yoga, the evening aarti, rafting from mid-September to June, and the 5 am buses to the Char Dham. Stay two or three nights; October to April is most comfortable.
Rishikesh sits where the Ganga breaks out of the Shivalik hills, about 25 km upstream of Haridwar. The river here is fast, green and cold, and the town spreads along both banks: the bus stands, markets and Triveni Ghat on the west side, and the ashrams of Swarg Ashram and the cafes of Tapovan and Lakshman Jhula across the water. It is a vegetarian, alcohol-free city by law; the sale of meat, fish and eggs has been banned since 1956.
The town has been a halt for sadhus and pilgrims for centuries, the last flat ground before the walk to Badrinath and Kedarnath. Its fame abroad came later. In February 1968 the Beatles spent weeks at Maharishi Mahesh Yogi's ashram on the east bank, writing much of the White Album, and a stream of Western seekers followed. Since 1999 the International Yoga Festival has run here each March, and the town calls itself the yoga capital of the world.
For travellers, Rishikesh does three jobs. It is the base for rafting, with rapids up to grade IV between Shivpuri and the town. It is a place to slow down for yoga, ayurveda and the river. And it is the yatra hub: UTC and GMOU buses leave before dawn for Uttarkashi, Barkot, Sonprayag and Badrinath, and the official Char Dham registration counters are here. Most of our Garhwal journeys start or end on its ghats.
Two aartis draw the crowds: the Maha Aarti at Triveni Ghat on the west bank, and the evening aarti at Parmarth Niketan in Swarg Ashram, with its riverside Shiva statue. Arrive 30–40 minutes early for a step on the ghat and leave shoes at the stands.
Chaurasi Kutia, Maharishi Mahesh Yogi's former academy, lies in forest on the east bank inside Rajaji Tiger Reserve. Abandoned in the 1990s and opened to visitors in December 2015, it has meditation domes, graffiti halls and the stone huts that gave it the name 84 huts.
The 16 km run from Shivpuri to the town is the classic half-day, with rapids such as Roller Coaster and Golf Course. Longer runs start at Marine Drive or Kaudiyala. Rafting is permitted from mid-September to 30 June; check current status before you travel.
Dozens of ashrams and schools offer drop-in classes from 6 am, residential courses and ayurvedic treatments. Parmarth Niketan and Sivananda Ashram are the best-known names; smaller studios in Tapovan run teacher trainings. Ask for a teacher's training before you sign up for long courses.
A short forest walk off the Badrinath highway, about 5–7 km from Lakshman Jhula, leads to a series of cold green pools. Go early on weekdays; the path is slippery after rain and the pools crowd up by noon in summer.
Rishikesh has the main offline Char Dham registration counters, the UTC bus stand and the GMOU yard for private hill buses. If you plan a saver yatra, spend your first evening sorting registration, bus tickets and cash here.
Field notes
Rishikesh is a vegetarian-only, alcohol-free city. The sale of meat, fish and eggs has been banned since 1956, and in 2004 the Supreme Court of India upheld the ban on eggs.
Source: Rishikesh
Maharishi Mahesh Yogi leased the land for his ashram from the Uttar Pradesh forest department in 1961. After it was abandoned, the site reverted to the forest department in 2003 and was officially opened to the public in December 2015.
Source: Beatles Ashram
Ram Jhula, the suspension bridge between Sivananda Nagar and Swarg Ashram, was built only in 1986. Before it, visitors to the east-bank ashrams crossed by Lakshman Jhula upstream or by a ferry near the present bridge.
Source: Beatles Ashram
Experiences
Every evening at sunset, priests at Triveni Ghat swing brass lamps over the Ganga while bells and chants fill the river…
Walk through the overgrown academy where the Beatles studied meditation in 1968. Stone meditation domes, a graffiti-cov…
The 16 km Shivpuri run is Rishikesh's classic half-day on the river: grade II–III rapids, a cold swim in a calm stretch…
Real prices
Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.
Getting there
Air
Dehradun's Jolly Grant airport is about 35 km away, 50–60 minutes by taxi (₹1,000–1,500). There are direct flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru and several other cities.
Rail
Haridwar, 25 km south, has the most trains, including the Shatabdi and Vande Bharat from Delhi. Yog Nagari Rishikesh station, opened in 2020, takes a smaller number of through trains. Shared autos and buses link Haridwar and Rishikesh every few minutes.
Bus
Uttarakhand Transport Corporation and private Volvo buses run overnight from Delhi ISBT Kashmere Gate in 6–7 hours. For the hills, UTC buses leave from the ISBT and the private GMOU buses from their yard near it, mostly between 4 am and 7 am.
Where to stay
Saver: Zostel in Tapovan and other hostels between Lakshman Jhula and Ram Jhula charge ₹500–1,000 for a dorm bed; ashrams such as Parmarth Niketan rent simple rooms to guests who follow their routine, and GMVN runs tourist complexes at Muni-ki-Reti. Comfort: Aloha on the Ganges in Tapovan has river-facing rooms and a pool. Signature: Taj Rishikesh sits on the river at Singthali, about 30 km upstream, and Ananda in the Himalayas occupies the old Tehri royal estate at Narendra Nagar above the town.
A backpacker hostel in Tapovan, between Lakshman Jhula and Ram Jhula, with dorms, private rooms, a rooftop cafe an…
A riverside hotel on the Badrinath road in Tapovan, near Lakshman Jhula, with rooms and apartments facing the Gang…
Photo: Sutharsan Shekhar · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Luxury
A Taj resort on 13 acres above the Ganga at Singthali, about 30 km upstream of Rishikesh, with rooms and villas fa…
Photo: https://www.flickr.com/photos/peem/ · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Luxury
India's first destination spa, opened in 2000 on the 100-acre estate of the Tehri royal palace at Narendra Nagar, …
Trips that stop here
Private car with driver
Private car with driver
UTC and GMOU buses, shared jeeps and a shared taxi
UTC and GMOU buses, shared jeeps and walking
Private car with driver and helicopter shuttle
Private car with driver
Questions
Two full days cover the aarti, a rafting run, the Beatles Ashram, a yoga class and the riverside walk between Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula. Add more if you are doing a yoga course or using Rishikesh as the start of a Char Dham or Valley of Flowers trip.
October to April is most comfortable, with days of 20–30 °C. March has the International Yoga Festival. May and June are hot, up to 38–40 °C, and crowded with yatra traffic. July and August bring heavy rain, a brown river and no rafting.
Not legally within the city. Rishikesh is a vegetarian-only, alcohol-free city, and the sale of meat, fish and eggs has been banned since 1956. Some riverside camps outside city limits serve both. Respect the rule in town and around ashrams.
The old Lakshman Jhula suspension bridge was closed to traffic for safety reasons in 2019. A new bridge next to it, Bajrang Setu, with glass walkways, has been built to replace it, and a fee has been announced for the glass section. Check current status before you travel.
Generally yes. Tapovan and Lakshman Jhula have many solo women on yoga courses. Use registered hostels and well-reviewed ashrams, avoid isolated riverbanks after dark, and be wary of anyone offering unofficial yoga certification or private sessions in remote places.
UTC and GMOU buses leave Rishikesh between about 4 am and 7 am. Sonprayag (for Kedarnath) takes 8–10 hours and costs ₹500–800; Badrinath takes 10–11 hours at ₹600–900. Buy tickets the evening before at the counters in yatra season.
Offline registration counters operate in Rishikesh during the yatra season, typically at the transit camp near the ISBT. Online registration on the Uttarakhand tourism portal is quicker. Carry your ID and the QR slip. Locations and dates change each year; check current status before you travel.
Yes, at Triveni Ghat and Parmarth Niketan the aarti runs every evening, all year, around sunset. On festival days such as Ganga Dussehra and Kartik Purnima the crowds are much larger, so arrive at least an hour early and keep valuables close.
Yes. The ghats, the aarti, short rafting on the Brahmpuri stretch for older children, Neer Garh waterfall and the nearby Rajaji forest work well. Watch children closely near the river, as currents are strong even where the water looks calm.
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