Chaukori's Udiyari Bend is a road knot: here routes from Kanda and Bageshwar, from Seraghat and Almora, and from Thal and Munsiyari meet, which is why it is the usual night halt on the way to Munsiyari.
Source: Chaukori
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Village in Kumaon
A quiet ridge facing Panchachuli, near the Patal Bhuvaneshwar cave
Chaukori is a ridge village at about 2,010 m in Pithoragarh district, facing the Panchachuli, Nanda Kot and Nanda Devi peaks across the valleys. It is quiet, cheap and a natural halt between Almora and Munsiyari. Stay one or two nights to see sunrise and visit the Patal Bhuvaneshwar cave temple.
Chaukori lies in Berinag tehsil of Pithoragarh district, on a spur covered in oak, pine and orchards about 10 km from Berinag town. It is small: a few hundred households, a bazaar, a KMVN rest house and a scattering of guesthouses and homestays. What draws travellers is the view north, where the Panchachuli peaks, Nanda Kot and the Nanda Devi group fill the skyline at sunrise from October to March.
The village sits at a road junction called Udiyari Bend, where routes from Bageshwar and Kanda, from Almora via Seraghat, and from Thal and Munsiyari meet. That makes Chaukori the most sensible night's halt on the long drive to Munsiyari, breaking a 9–11 hour journey from Kathgodam into two easier days. Uttarakhand Roadways and shared jeeps pass through.
The country around is the old Gangoli region between the Saryu and Ramganga rivers, once ruled by its own Mankoti kings and later absorbed by the Chands. Its best-known sites are the Patal Bhuvaneshwar cave temple, a limestone cave 160 m long, and the Hat Kalika temple at Gangolihat in a deodar grove. Both are within 1.5 hours' drive of Chaukori.
From the ridge near the KMVN rest house, the five Panchachuli summits catch the first light, with Nanda Kot and the Nanda Devi group to their west. October to February gives the clearest mornings; be outside 20 minutes before sunrise.
About 35–40 km away, a narrow passage leads down into a limestone cave about 160 m long and 90 feet deep, with rock formations worshipped as deities. Phones and cameras must usually be left outside.
The temple of the goddess Kali at Gangolihat stands in a grove of deodar, with old temple remains and an inscribed stone well nearby. It is busy at Navratri and calm on weekday mornings.
Paths from Chaukori run through oak and pine forest, orchards and terraced villages. A morning walk with a local guide shows village life, naulas and birds such as barbets and laughingthrushes.
Chaukori is far from the crowds. KMVN rooms and homestays cost much less than the lake towns, meals are home-style, and evenings are silent apart from dogs and wind.
Field notes
Chaukori's Udiyari Bend is a road knot: here routes from Kanda and Bageshwar, from Seraghat and Almora, and from Thal and Munsiyari meet, which is why it is the usual night halt on the way to Munsiyari.
Source: Chaukori
Patal Bhuvaneshwar is a limestone cave about 160 m long and 90 feet deep from its entrance, reached by a narrow tunnel-like opening that leads to a series of caves within caves.
Source: Patal Bhuvaneshwar
In 1821 Commissioner George William Traill reported that 373 people had been killed by tigers in the Gangoli area around Gangolihat in just three years; by the early 20th century the valleys had been cleared into farmland.
Source: Gangolihat
Experiences
Wake early and walk to the edge of the Chaukori ridge to watch first light hit Panchachuli's five summits and the long …
A narrow, steep passage leads down into a limestone cave 160 m long and 90 feet deep, where priests guide pilgrims past…
Photo: Parthasarathi Chattopadhyay · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Walk from the Chaukori ridge through oak and pine forest and orchards to nearby hamlets, past terraced fields, naulas a…
Real prices
Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.
Getting there
Air
Pantnagar Airport is about 230 km away, around 8 hours by road. Pithoragarh's small airport, about 85 km away, has had intermittent regional flights; check current status before you travel.
Train
Kathgodam railway station is about 200 km away, 7–8 hours via Almora and Seraghat or via Bageshwar. Most travellers break the journey in Almora. A private taxi from Kathgodam costs about ₹6,000–7,500.
Road
Shared jeeps and Uttarakhand Roadways buses run from Almora, Bageshwar and Haldwani towards Berinag; change at Berinag for the last 10 km if needed. From Chaukori it is about 95 km and 4 hours to Munsiyari via Thal. Check current status before you travel in the monsoon.
Where to stay
Saver: the KMVN tourist rest house is the best-known stay, set on the ridge with cottages that face Panchachuli; homestays in the village charge about ₹1,500–3,000 per person with meals. Comfort: a few private resorts and cottage stays with heating and larger rooms lie along the ridge road. There is no luxury hotel in Chaukori; comfort and signature trips use the best cottage available and keep it to one or two nights.
Trips that stop here
Photo: Travelling Slacker · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Saver
Shared jeeps and buses via Almora, Chaukori, Thal and Bageshwar
Questions
Yes, for quiet and views. Chaukori has a clear north-facing view of Panchachuli and Nanda Devi, cheap stays and few tourists. It is also the best halt between Almora and Munsiyari. There is little to do beyond walks and nearby temples.
About 95 km, 4 hours by road via Thal and Birthi. Shared jeeps run from Berinag and Thal towards Munsiyari.
Take a train to Kathgodam, then a taxi or shared transport to Almora, and on to Chaukori via Seraghat, about 4 more hours. Most travellers break the journey in Almora or Kausani.
October to February for clear Panchachuli views, and March to June for pleasant weather and rhododendrons. Avoid July and August, when landslides affect the roads.
The KMVN rest house is the best-known stay, with ridge cottages facing the peaks. Homestays and small resorts are also available. Book north-facing rooms.
Jio and BSNL work in most of the village, and Airtel in parts. Speeds can be slow. Download what you need before leaving Almora.
One night is enough as a halt to Munsiyari; two nights lets you visit Patal Bhuvaneshwar and Gangolihat and see two sunrises.
Light snow falls in some winters between late December and February. Nights are cold from November to March, often near freezing.
Yes, for families who like quiet. Children enjoy the cave at Patal Bhuvaneshwar if they are comfortable with narrow spaces. There are no amusements, so bring books and games.
Plan with a local planner
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