The city's name comes from Kasthamandap, from Sanskrit kastha (wood) and mandapa (pavilion). Newar people call the city Yen, and older texts call it Kantipur, the city of light.
Source: Kathmandu
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City in Nepal
Stupas, a living goddess and the start of every trek
Kathmandu is Nepal's capital and the start of most trips, at about 1,400 m in the Kathmandu valley. Give it two or three nights: Durbar Square and the Kumari, the stupas of Swayambhunath and Boudhanath, and Pashupatinath on the Bagmati. Stay in Thamel for budget and trek logistics, or Battisputali for Dwarika's.
Kathmandu takes its name from Kasthamandap, a wooden pavilion beside Durbar Square; the Sanskrit words mean wood and pavilion. Newar people, the valley's original city-builders, still call it Yen. The old city is a grid of brick courtyards, shrines at every crossing and markets that run from Asan to Indra Chowk, while Thamel to the north is the guesthouse quarter where trekkers buy gear and book buses. It is noisy and dusty, and the temples are worth every minute of it.
The valley's UNESCO World Heritage listing of 1979 covers seven monument zones, and four of them are in or around Kathmandu: Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath and Pashupatinath. Many buildings fell in the April 2015 earthquake. Kasthamandap itself collapsed and has been rebuilt with traditional joinery, and Boudhanath's cracked spire was restored and reopened in November 2016 with community money and gold.
For Indian travellers, Kathmandu is a short flight from Delhi or a long bus ride from Sunauli or Raxaul. Pashupatinath, one of the most important Shiva temples in South Asia, draws many families on its own. Plan at least two full days, more if you want to add Patan and Bhaktapur as day trips, and keep a spare day before any Lukla flight.
The old royal square of Hanuman Dhoka holds the palace courtyards, the Kumari Ghar where the living goddess lives, and Kasthamandap, rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake. SAARC visitors pay NPR 150 and other foreigners NPR 1,000. Go before 9 am, when the square belongs to locals doing puja.
The white stupa with painted eyes sits on a hill west of the city, reached by a long eastern stairway built in the time of King Pratap Malla. Monkeys gave it its nickname. Dawn brings Tibetan and Newar Buddhists walking the circuit and spinning prayer wheels.
Boudha is the largest spherical stupa in Nepal, about 36 m high, on the old trade road to Tibet. After 1959 Tibetan refugees settled here and over 50 gompas now ring the area. Walk the circuit clockwise at dusk with the butter lamps lit.
Nepal's holiest Shiva temple stands on the Bagmati river east of the city. Only Hindus may enter the main temple courtyard; everyone can watch the evening aarti and the cremation ghats from the far bank. Dress modestly and do not photograph funerals at close range.
The old market lanes between Asan and Indra Chowk sell spices, brass pots, glass bangles and dried fish, with a temple at every junction. It takes an hour to walk slowly, and it is the best way to see how the old city still works.
A restored neo-classical garden at the edge of Thamel, built in the early twentieth century and reopened after restoration. It is a quiet place to sit between sightseeing and trek errands, with a small entry fee.
Field notes
The city's name comes from Kasthamandap, from Sanskrit kastha (wood) and mandapa (pavilion). Newar people call the city Yen, and older texts call it Kantipur, the city of light.
Source: Kathmandu
Kasthamandap's oldest features date to the Licchavi period; radiocarbon dating points to construction in the 7th century CE. It collapsed in the April 2015 earthquake and was rebuilt.
Source: Kasthamandap
Boudhanath's restoration after the 2015 earthquake was led by the local community, cost about USD 2.1 million and used over 30 kg of gold. It reopened on 22 November 2016.
Source: Boudha Stupa
Experiences
Climb the eastern stairway to Swayambhunath at first light and walk the circuit with the morning pilgrims. You see Newa…
Walk the evening circuit of Boudhanath with the Tibetan community, light butter lamps and climb to a rooftop for the st…
A morning in Kathmandu's royal square with a licensed guide: the Hanuman Dhoka palace, Kasthamandap, the Kumari's house…
Real prices
Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.
Getting there
Air
Tribhuvan International Airport has direct flights from Delhi (about 1 h 40 min), Mumbai, Bengaluru, Kolkata and Varanasi. Pre-paid taxis to Thamel cost about NPR 700–1,000.
Bus
From Sunauli, buses leave Bhairahawa for Kathmandu through the day and take 8–10 hours. From Raxaul, cross to Birgunj and take a day or night bus (7–9 hours). Tourist buses arrive from Pokhara at Sorhakhutte near Thamel.
Road
Indian cars can enter with a bhansar customs permit at the border. Expect slow traffic on the Prithvi Highway near Naubise and inside the valley's ring road.
Where to stay
Saver: Thamel and Paknajol have the most hostels and guesthouses; Zostel Kathmandu is down an alley off Paknajol Marg, with dorms and private rooms. Comfort: the Kathmandu Guest House in Thamel, open since 1968, has a quiet garden courtyard and rooms across several price levels. Signature: Dwarika's Hotel at Battisputali is built around hundreds of rescued carved Newar windows and doors, close to Pashupatinath and Boudhanath. Stay in Thamel if you need trek shops and tourist buses; stay near Boudha for quiet mornings at the stupa.
The Indian hostel chain's Kathmandu property, down a quiet alley off Paknajol Marg a few minutes' walk from Thamel…
Thamel's original guesthouse, open since 1968 in a former Rana-era building, with a garden courtyard in the middle…
Kathmandu's best-known heritage hotel at Battisputali, built around a collection of carved Newar windows, doors an…
Trips that stop here
Domestic flights to Lukla, private car in Kathmandu, five days on foot
Private car with driver
Local buses, microbuses and shared taxis
Tourist bus and shared jeep; three days on foot
Private car with driver; domestic flight Pokhara–Kathmandu
Domestic flights to Lukla, private car in Kathmandu, six days on foot
Questions
Two full days covers Durbar Square, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath and Pashupatinath. Add a third for Patan or Bhaktapur, which are 20–40 minutes away by taxi. Before a Lukla flight, keep one spare day, because mountain flights are often delayed by weather.
Thamel and Paknajol have the most hostels and simple guesthouses, with dorm beds at ₹400–800 and private doubles at ₹1,200–2,500. Zostel Kathmandu is a reliable hostel. Thamel is also where tourist buses to Pokhara leave from and where trekking agencies and gear shops cluster.
Non-Hindus are not allowed into the main temple courtyard but can walk the riverside complex, the smaller shrines and the far bank of the Bagmati. Hindu visitors, including Indians, can enter the inner courtyard. Foreign visitors pay an entry fee; check current status before you travel.
Generally yes. Petty theft happens in crowded markets, so keep phones and wallets secure. Traffic is the biggest daily risk. Watch the news for strikes or demonstrations, which can close roads for a day, and follow your hotel's advice.
Pre-paid taxis from the counter inside arrivals cost about NPR 700–1,000 and take 20–40 minutes. Ride-hailing apps such as Pathao and InDrive also work in Kathmandu and are often cheaper.
The valley traps dust and smoke, and air quality is often poor from December to April, especially in the mornings and evenings. Carry an N95 mask if you are sensitive. After the monsoon in October the air is usually at its cleanest.
Yes, ₹100 notes are taken in most shops and hotels at 1 INR = 1.6 NPR. Since 2026 Nepal has allowed post-2016 ₹200 and ₹500 notes up to ₹25,000 per person, but small shops may refuse them. Check current status before you travel.
Try momos, Newari samay baji (beaten rice with buffalo meat, beans and pickles), chatamari (rice-flour crepe) and yomari in winter. Thakali dal bhat sets are filling and good value. In Boudha, eat thukpa and Tibetan bread.
Yes, if you keep the pace slow. Swayambhunath's monkeys and Boudhanath's prayer wheels are usually a hit with children. Avoid the busiest traffic hours, use taxis between sites, and carry hand sanitiser and bottled or filtered water.
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