Village · Marpha and Jomsom, Nepal
Kagbeni, the old gate to Mustang
Visit Kagbeni, a mud-brick village of tunnels and alleys at the meeting of the Kali Gandaki and Jhong rivers, with a red gompa and a checkpost marking the start of restricted Upper Mustang.
Photo: Bijay Chaurasia · CC BY-SA 4.0 · CommonsKagbeni lies about 10 km north of Jomsom, where the Jhong Khola comes down from Muktinath to meet the Kali Gandaki. Its houses are built close together of mud-brick and stone, with passageways running under them that shelter people from the wind. Barley and buckwheat fields surround the village, and apple orchards have spread here too.
The red Kag Chode monastery, a Sakya gompa, stands at the edge of the village above the river. Ask the caretaker to let you in; leave a small donation. Look for the clay guardian figures at the village entrances, said to protect Kagbeni from harm, and the prayer wheels along the lanes.
North of Kagbeni the valley narrows into Upper Mustang, and a checkpost stops anyone without a restricted-area permit. Walk to the edge of the village for a look up the valley towards Lo. Return to Jomsom or Marpha before the afternoon wind.
Good for
Also in Marpha and Jomsom
More days here
Photo: Sundar1 · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Commons
Marpha apple orchards and brandy tasting
Walk through Marpha's orchards, learn how the Thakali village turned from the salt trade to apples, then taste dried ap…
Photo: Nipendramaharjan · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Muktinath: 108 spouts and an eternal flame
Drive up from Jomsom to Muktinath, at about 3,760 m, where Hindus bathe under 108 water spouts and Buddhists honour Chu…
Questions
Before you book
Can I go beyond Kagbeni without a permit?
No. North of Kagbeni is Upper Mustang, which requires a restricted-area permit and a licensed guide arranged by a registered agency. Check current status before you travel.
How do I get to Kagbeni?
By shared or private jeep from Jomsom in about 40 minutes, or on foot in about 3 hours along the riverbed and road.
What altitude is Kagbeni?
About 2,800 m, slightly higher than Jomsom and Marpha.