Marpha's people are Thakali, and the village name is said to mean hard-working people. It is known as Nepal's apple capital and produces Marpha brandy and fruit jams.
Source: Marpha
Village in Nepal
Marpha and Jomsom
Apple orchards, Thakali houses and the windy Kali Gandaki
Marpha is a whitewashed Thakali village at about 2,670 m in the Kali Gandaki valley, a 20-minute drive south of Jomsom. Nepal's apple capital, it makes brandy, cider and dried apples. Use it as a base for Muktinath (≈ 3,760 m) and Kagbeni. Fly to Jomsom from Pokhara in 20 minutes or take a 7–9 hour bus.
Photo: Saddam19 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · CommonsMarpha sits in the rain shadow of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs, where the Kali Gandaki river flows through one of the deepest gorges on earth. Thakali people built it as a compact village of flat-roofed stone houses painted white, packed along a single flagstone lane with drains running under it, and stacked firewood on the roofs as a sign of a household's wealth. Above the village, a Nyingma monastery looks down over the roofs.
The name, locals say, means hard-working people. When the old salt trade with Tibet faded, Marpha's farmers turned to fruit. A government horticulture farm here helped introduce apple varieties, and today the village calls itself the apple capital of Nepal, selling fresh apples in autumn, and dried apples, jam, juice and apple brandy all year. Chhairo gompa across the river is said to be the first Nyingma monastery in Mustang District.
Jomsom, the district headquarters and airport town, is about 6 km north and less pleasant to stay in, so we base trips in Marpha. From here a jeep road climbs to Muktinath, a temple sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, and the medieval village of Kagbeni marks the gate to restricted Upper Mustang. Sleeping altitude is around 2,700 m, so take the first day easy.
Say it like a local · NepaliSyau
apple
What to do in Marpha and Jomsom
Marpha's white lane
One flagstone street runs through the village between whitewashed stone houses with wooden windows and firewood stacked on the roofs. Walk it in the morning before the afternoon wind rises, and climb to the monastery above.
Apples, brandy and dried fruit
Marpha's orchards ripen from August to October. Shops sell fresh apples, dried apple rings, jam, juice and local apple brandy year round. Apple pie in a lodge kitchen is the trekkers' ritual here.
Muktinath by jeep
Shared jeeps run from Jomsom to Muktinath in about 1.5 hours. The temple, at about 3,760 m, has 108 water spouts and a flame fed by natural gas, and is sacred to Hindus and Buddhists alike.
Kagbeni, gate to Upper Mustang
A mud-brick village of narrow alleys and a red gompa where the Jhong river meets the Kali Gandaki. North of Kagbeni, you need a restricted-area permit. It is about 1.5 hours by jeep from Marpha.
Thakali dal bhat
The Thakali people are famous for their dal bhat sets: black lentils, rice or buckwheat, greens, pickles and ghee. The cooking style has spread across Nepal, but here it is at home.
Field notes
What most guides miss about Marpha and Jomsom
Chhairo gompa, across the Kali Gandaki from Marpha, is described as the first Nyingma monastery established in Mustang District.
Source: Marpha
At Muktinath, Hindus revere 108 water spouts called mukti dharas, while Tibetan Buddhists know the site as Chumig Gyatsa, the Hundred Waters. A nearby shrine holds a flame fed by natural gas.
Source: Muktinath
Experiences
Three days worth having in Marpha and Jomsom
Photo: Sundar1 · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Commons
Marpha and Jomsom · 2–3 hours
Marpha apple orchards and brandy tasting
Walk through Marpha's orchards, learn how the Thakali village turned from the salt trade to apples, then taste dried ap…
Free walk; apples ₹60–150 a kg; brandy ₹500–1,000 a bottle
Photo: Nipendramaharjan · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Marpha and Jomsom · Full day from Marpha
Muktinath: 108 spouts and an eternal flame
Drive up from Jomsom to Muktinath, at about 3,760 m, where Hindus bathe under 108 water spouts and Buddhists honour Chu…
Shared jeep ₹500–700 each way from Jomsom; private jeep ₹6,000–…
Photo: Bijay Chaurasia · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Marpha and Jomsom · Half day
Kagbeni, the old gate to Mustang
Visit Kagbeni, a mud-brick village of tunnels and alleys at the meeting of the Kali Gandaki and Jhong rivers, with a re…
Jeep ₹400–600 each way from Jomsom; gompa donation
Real prices
What things cost in Marpha and Jomsom
ItemIndicative 2026
Flight, Pokhara–Jomsom one way₹8,000–11,000 at foreigner fares
Bus or shared jeep, Pokhara–Jomsom₹1,100–1,900 a seat
Shared jeep, Jomsom–Muktinath one way₹500–700
Lodge double in Marpha₹600–2,500 a night
Thakali dal bhat set₹450–750
Bottle of Marpha apple brandy₹500–1,000
Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.
Getting there
How to reach Marpha and Jomsom
Air
Small planes fly Pokhara–Jomsom in about 20 minutes, only in the morning because the Kali Gandaki wind makes afternoon landings unsafe. Flights are often delayed by weather; keep a buffer day.
Bus
Buses and shared jeeps run from Pokhara via Beni along the Kali Gandaki road to Jomsom in 7–9 hours, longer after rain. The road is rough and landslide-prone in the monsoon. Check current status before you travel.
Road
A private jeep from Pokhara takes 6–8 hours. Ordinary cars struggle beyond Beni. Marpha is about 20 minutes south of Jomsom by road.
Where to stay
Sleeping in Marpha and Jomsom
Saver: Marpha's lane is lined with family lodges offering simple rooms with shared or attached bathrooms from ₹600 and good Thakali food; Jomsom has more choice but less charm. Comfort: several lodges in Marpha and Jomsom have attached bathrooms, solar hot water and heated dining rooms; book the best available with mountain views. Signature: there is no luxury hotel in Marpha; signature trips use the best lodges here and pair them with Tiger Mountain Pokhara Lodge before and after.
Questions
Marpha and Jomsom, answered
How do I get to Jomsom and Marpha from Pokhara?
Fly in about 20 minutes on a morning flight, or take a bus or shared jeep via Beni along the Kali Gandaki road in 7–9 hours. Flights are often delayed by wind and cloud; the road can be blocked by landslides in the monsoon. Keep a spare day either way.
Is Marpha better than Jomsom for staying?
We prefer Marpha. It is a traditional whitewashed Thakali village with good lodges and food, and is only 20 minutes from Jomsom's airport and jeep stand. Jomsom is more convenient for early flights.
Can I visit Muktinath in one day from Pokhara?
Only by helicopter or a very tight flight-and-jeep combination, which is risky because of altitude and weather. Plan at least two nights in Jomsom or Marpha.
What altitude is Muktinath and will I get altitude sickness?
About 3,760 m. Many visitors feel headaches or breathlessness. Spend a night at Marpha or Jomsom first, walk slowly, drink water, and descend if symptoms worsen. Talk to your doctor about altitude medicine.
Do I need a permit for Jomsom and Marpha?
Yes, the ACAP permit. In 2026 it costs NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals and NPR 3,000 for others. Upper Mustang beyond Kagbeni needs an additional restricted-area permit. Check current status before you travel.
Why is the Kali Gandaki valley so windy?
Strong winds blow up the valley from late morning as air heats up, funnelled through the gorge between Dhaulagiri and the Annapurnas. Flights land only in the morning, and walking north in the afternoon is hard work.
When is the best time to visit Marpha?
March to May and September to November are pleasant. As it sits in the rain shadow, it also stays fairly dry in the monsoon, though the road from Pokhara is often disrupted. Winters are cold and some lodges close.
Are there ATMs in Jomsom?
Jomsom has a few bank ATMs, but they can run out of cash. Carry enough NPR or INR ₹100 notes from Pokhara.
Is the Jomsom flight safe?
Mountain flights in Nepal operate in difficult terrain and weather, and there have been accidents on this route. Fly early, with an established airline, and accept delays when weather is poor.