The floating gardens on Dal Lake are called raad in Kashmiri. Farmers build them from mats of reeds and lake weed and grow tomatoes, cucumbers and melons on them, and lotus flowers bloom across the lake in July and August.
Source: Dal Lake
City in Kashmir
Srinagar
Houseboats, Mughal gardens and an old city of craftsmen
Srinagar is Kashmir's summer capital, spread around Dal Lake at 1,585 m. Spend two to three nights: one on a houseboat, a dawn shikara to the floating vegetable market, the Mughal gardens on the Zabarwan foothills, and a walk through the wooden mosques and craft lanes of the old city on the Jhelum.
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · CommonsSrinagar is two cities. The lake city wraps around Dal and Nigeen, with houseboats moored along the Boulevard, floating gardens called raad growing tomatoes and lotus root, and shikaras carrying everything from tourists to vegetables. The old city, Shehr-e-Khaas, runs along the Jhelum with seven historic bridges, wooden shrines and dense lanes of craftsmen. Most visitors see only the first. We suggest giving the second at least a morning.
The setting explains the city. Dal Lake covers about 18 sq km at 1,583 m, divided by causeways into four basins: Gagribal, Lokut Dal, Bod Dal and Nigeen. Behind it the Zabarwan range shelters a string of Mughal gardens, laid out from 1619 onwards to catch spring water and shade. On the other side, the Hari Parbat hill and its fort watch over the old city, while the Shankaracharya hill rises above the Boulevard.
Srinagar is also the practical hub of the valley. Flights, the train from Katra, JKSRTC buses and shared Sumos all start here, and almost every day trip, to Gulmarg, Sonamarg, Doodhpathri, Yusmarg, Pampore or Dachigam, is under three hours away. Base yourself here for three or four nights and you can see much of Kashmir without changing rooms often.
Say it like a local · KashmiriRaad
a floating garden on Dal Lake, built from reeds and weed and used to grow vegetables
What to do in Srinagar
A night on a houseboat
Houseboats on the Dal and Nigeen are carved cedar and walnut rooms on the water, reached by shikara. Budget boats on the inner lake are simple and friendly; deluxe boats near the Boulevard have heaters and full meals. Nigeen is quieter than the Dal Gate stretch.
The dawn vegetable market
Between about 5 and 7 am, farmers from the floating gardens paddle boats loaded with lotus stem, turnips, greens and tomatoes to a gathering point near Rainawari to trade. It is a working market, not a show, and it is over by breakfast.
Shalimar and Nishat
Jahangir built Shalimar Bagh in 1619, and Asif Khan built Nishat Bagh in 1633 with twelve terraces down to the lake. Walk uphill along the central channels to see how water was moved purely by gravity, and look back across Dal from the top terrace.
Old city shrines
The Jamia Masjid's 378 deodar columns and the Khanqah-e-Moula's papier-mache walls are two of the finest wooden buildings in the Himalaya. Dress modestly, remove shoes, and ask before photographing inside. Women may be restricted to certain areas.
Tulips and chinars
In April the Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden, about 30 ha below the Zabarwan, holds over a million bulbs. In October the chinar avenues of Naseem Bagh, now a heritage park with over 700 trees, turn red and gold.
Wazwan and harissa
Srinagar is the place to eat Kashmiri food properly: rogan josh, yakhni and gushtaba at a wazwan restaurant, and in winter harissa, a slow-cooked mutton and rice paste, sold at dawn from old-city shops.
Field notes
What most guides miss about Srinagar
Srinagar joined the UNESCO Creative Cities Network in November 2021 as a City of Crafts and Folk Art, recognising papier-mache, walnut wood carving, carpets, sozni embroidery and shawl weaving.
Source: UNESCO Creative Cities Network
The Jamia Masjid at Nowhatta was commissioned by Sultan Sikandar in 1394 and completed in 1402. Its roof rests on 378 wooden columns of deodar, and it has been rebuilt after fires more than once.
Source: Jamia Masjid, Srinagar
Experiences
Three days worth having in Srinagar
Photo: Suhail Skindar Sofi · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Srinagar · 2–2.5 hours
Dawn shikara to Dal's vegetable market
Before sunrise, farmers from Dal's floating gardens paddle their produce to a gathering point near Rainawari and trade …
Shikara ₹1,000–1,800 per boat for the trip
Photo: ANSAR AHMAD · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Srinagar · Half day
Mughal gardens of the Zabarwan, terrace by terrace
Four gardens line the foothills above Dal Lake: Shalimar, Nishat, Chashme Shahi and Pari Mahal. Visiting in a morning s…
Entry ₹25–50 per garden; taxi ₹1,200–1,800 for the circuit
Photo: The original uploader was Lokantha at English … · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Srinagar · 3–4 hours
Old city walk: wooden shrines and craft lanes
Walk from the Khanqah-e-Moula on the Jhelum to the Jamia Masjid at Nowhatta through lanes where papier-mache painters, …
Free entry; guide ₹1,500–2,500 for a small group
Real prices
What things cost in Srinagar
ItemIndicative 2026
Shikara, per boat per hour (government rates displayed at ghats)₹600–1,200
Houseboat budget room with breakfast₹1,500–3,000 a room
Mughal garden entry (Shalimar, Nishat, Chashme Shahi)₹25–50 per adult
Tulip garden entry in season₹75–100 per adult
Rogan josh with rice at a local restaurant₹300–500
Airport prepaid taxi to Dal Gate₹800–1,200
Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.
Getting there
How to reach Srinagar
Air
Srinagar airport is about 12 km from Dal Gate, 30–45 minutes by taxi. Non-stop flights run from Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Kolkata, Chandigarh and Jammu. Security checks at the airport are thorough, so arrive two hours early for departures.
Train
Vande Bharat trains from Shri Mata Vaishno Devi Katra reach Srinagar station at Nowgam in about 3 hours. Local DEMU trains run along the valley to Anantnag, Pampore and Baramulla for small fares. Check current timetables before you travel.
Road
NH44 from Jammu is about 250 km, 7–9 hours through Banihal. Shared Sumos leave Jammu's bus stand area through the morning, and JKSRTC runs buses. Landslides can close the highway for a day or more; check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
Sleeping in Srinagar
Saver: houseboats on Nigeen and the inner Dal have simple rooms from about ₹1,500 a night, and Zostel Srinagar near Nishat has dorm beds and private rooms. Old-city and Lal Chowk guesthouses are cheap but busy. Comfort: deluxe houseboats near the Boulevard, Ahdoos on Residency Road, and the many three and four star hotels in Rajbagh and on the Boulevard. Signature: The LaLiT Grand Palace, the Maharaja's former Gulab Bhavan above Dal, with large lawns and chinar trees; Vivanta Dal View on the Kralsangri hill is another top option.
Photo: McKay Savage · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Budget
Hostel · Srinagar
Zostel Srinagar
A backpacker hostel in the Nishat area, a short walk from the eastern shore of Dal Lake, with dorm beds, private r…
₹600–1,200 for a dorm bed; ₹2,000–4,000 for a private doubl…
Photo: GharWapsi · CC0 · Commons
Mid
Boutique hotel · Srinagar
Ahdoos Hotel
A long-established city hotel on Residency Road in central Srinagar, best known for its restaurant, one of the val…
₹4,500–8,000 a night for a double (indicative)
Photo: Vinayaraj · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Luxury
Heritage hotel · Srinagar
The LaLiT Grand Palace Srinagar
The former Gulab Bhavan, a summer palace completed in 1910 for Maharaja Pratap Singh, set in large lawns with chin…
₹18,000–45,000 a night for a double (indicative)
Trips that stop here
See Srinagar on a trip
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Comfort
Kashmir · 6 nights · sleeps to 2,730 m
Kashmir in autumn: saffron, chinars and Aru
Private car with driver
From, per person₹39,000Oct – Nov
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Comfort
Kashmir · 7 nights · sleeps to 2,730 m
Classic Kashmir: Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam
Private car with driver
From, per person₹54,000Apr – Jun · Sep – Oct
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Saver
Kashmir · 6 nights · sleeps to 2,400 m
Gurez Valley on a budget by shared Sumo
JKSRTC or private bus to Bandipora, shared Sumos, one shared car day
From, per person₹14,500Jun – Oct
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Saver
Kashmir · 5 nights · sleeps to 2,650 m
Srinagar, Gulmarg and Pahalgam on a budget
Shared Sumos, the valley train and a shared union taxi in Pahalgam
From, per person₹12,500Apr – Jun · Sep – Oct
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Signature
Kashmir · 7 nights · sleeps to 2,650 m
Signature Kashmir: palace, meadow and river
Private car with driver and a private guide
From, per person₹1,45,000Apr – Jun · Sep – Oct
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Signature
Kashmir · 6 nights · sleeps to 2,650 m
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Kashmir in winter: Gulmarg snow and Srinagar
Private 4x4 with driver and snow chains
From, per person₹1,65,000Jan – Feb
Questions
Srinagar, answered
How many days are enough for Srinagar?
Two full days covers the essentials: one for Dal Lake, the dawn market and the Mughal gardens, one for the old city, Hazratbal and Shankaracharya hill. Add a third if you want day trips to Pampore, Dachigam or Doodhpathri without changing hotels. Most visitors use Srinagar as a base for three or four nights.
Is a houseboat in Srinagar worth it?
Yes, for at least one night. You wake on the water, see the lake at dawn and dusk, and get a shikara at the door. Choose Nigeen for quiet or the Boulevard side of Dal for convenience. Confirm heating, hot water and whether meals are included before paying.
How much does a shikara ride cost in Srinagar?
The tourism department posts hourly rates at the main ghats, typically ₹600–1,200 per boat per hour depending on season and route. A sunset ride of 1–2 hours is the usual choice. Agree the route and the time before you board, and pay at the end.
What is the best time to visit Srinagar?
April for tulips and spring gardens, May and June for warm long days, and October to early November for chinar colours and the saffron harvest nearby. Winter from December to February is cold and foggy but quiet and cheap, with snow on the hills and harissa in the old city.
Is Srinagar safe for solo women travellers?
Many solo women travel here without problems. Dress conservatively, use registered houseboats and hotels, book shikaras through your stay, and avoid deserted ghats after dark. Persistent vendors are the most common nuisance. Check current advisories before you travel and share your plans with your hotel.
Where should I eat wazwan in Srinagar?
Long-running restaurants such as Ahdoos on Residency Road serve wazwan dishes à la carte, so you can try rista, rogan josh, gushtaba and yakhni without ordering a full feast. A shared trami for four is the traditional way. Expect ₹800–1,500 per person for a generous wazwan meal.
Do I need cash in Srinagar?
ATMs are common in Lal Chowk, Residency Road and the Boulevard, and most hotels take cards and UPI. Carry cash for shikaras, small eateries, garden entries and tips. Network problems sometimes affect UPI, so keep ₹2,000–3,000 in small notes.
How do I get from Srinagar airport to Dal Lake?
Take the prepaid taxi from the counter outside arrivals, about ₹800–1,200 to Dal Gate or the Boulevard, 30–45 minutes. Houseboat owners will meet you at the ghat with a shikara. App cabs operate only patchily. JKSRTC airport buses have run at times; check current status.
What should I not miss in Srinagar in winter?
A kangri-warmed evening on a houseboat, harissa for breakfast in the old city, the frozen edges of Dal in Chillai Kalan, and a day trip to Gulmarg for snow. Ask for a room with a heater or bukhari stove, and expect occasional power cuts.